Lawn (lon) noun. A usually closely mown plot or area planted with grass or similar plants. [variant of obsolete laund, from Middle English launde, lawnde, from Old French launde, heath]

Heath (heeth) noun. 1. Any of various usually low-growing shrubs of the genus Erica and related genera, native to the Old World, having small, evergreen leaves and small, urn-shaped pink or purplish flowers. 2. An extensive tract of open, uncultivated land covered with such shrubs or similar plants; a moor.

Moor (moor) noun. A broad tract of open land, often high but poorly drained, with patches of heath and peat bogs.

At what point of history did a lawn become defined solely as closely cropped green turf grass? Was it originally to walk on? Was it developed at the time we domesticated animals such as cows, horses, and sheep that fed on grasses? Was it for lawn bowling, golf, or cricket?

"True" grasses include not only what we now know as lawn grass, but also cereal grains, as well as those grains grown as ornamental garden grasses. Bamboo is also in this category. Over the years, the meaning of grass has expanded to include a wide range of plants with narrow to strap-like leaves. This group includes rushes, sedges, liriopes, flax (phormium) and cattails.

Today, we also have an even greater list of plants that can be used instead of a turf grass. We call them "lawn substitutes" when they are used in this fashion. All of these plants, as well as the grasses listed above, can be members of your gardens--functioning in a decorative way and complementing other plantings.

There are many reasons to consider alternative plants in place of a regularly mown lawn: too much shade, too little water, too much water, a preference for alternative ground covers, a preference for alternative grasses, and the need for regular mowing. There are many beautiful options available today. For example, a number of no-mow ornamental grasses can be used in hard-to-mow areas, or even in a large area, if you like a natural look.

There are many lawn substitutes to choose from, depending upon your needs and requirements. The choices increase if you have areas with very little foot traffic. Use substitutes in combination with each other by placing the most traffic-tolerant plants in the heaviest foot traffic areas. Add in some of the many ornamental grasses for a bit of height.

Many plants besides the usual lawn grasses will tolerate foot traffic. Varieties of cerastium, chamomile, leptinella, pratia, sagina, silene, and thyme are all examples of ground covers that take some foot traffic and would be beautiful lawn substitutes. Some of these flower; others release a wonderful fragrance with each step. Some, like thyme, do both.

Today, more and more people are bringing back a more natural look to their yards and gardens. Many areas of the country are working hard to maintain and reestablish the native plant habitats. You can join in this passionate evolution of gardens. Remember, until recent years, grass meant only a "lawn," green and mown. There are now many alternatives to that bowling lawn look. Enjoy seeking out and planting your new lawn substitutes.

Most gardeners love a colorful garden filled with blooming annuals, but many don't realize that a colorful garden can also smell good! In addition to filling your garden with wonderful scents to tickle your nose, fragrant annuals provide the added benefit of attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and other beneficial insects that help control bad bugs.

You can build a fragrance garden by creating a layered effect with shorter annuals in the front and gradually increasing the height to the back of the bed. If you are planting a garden island, start with the taller varieties in the center and lower the height of plantings as you work towards the outer edge.

For border plants on the outside, consider alyssum, dianthus, petunia, dwarf sweet peas and viola. Now add a layer of mid-size bloomers (1-2') such as cornflower, linaria, nasturtium, nicotiana, annual phlox, stock and wallflower. Next come the tall guys, like cleome, four o'clock, and tall sweet pea varieties. If you have room on a fence at the back of a bed, you can also plant the fragrant moonflower vine.

Shaded areas don't have to go neglected for fragrance either. Alyssum will still bloom well provided you have full morning sun, as will dianthus, linaria and viola. For shade gardens, nothing beats heliotrope, and some varieties of impatiens are moderately fragrant as well.

So remember, your flowerbeds can smell good as well as look good!

Remember that we have two seminars coming up (see main page), and there will be raffle prizes!

(Please, if you need an answer to a question, telephone us at (562) 947-2013

This Week's Question: What is the botanical name of the jade plant?

This Week's Prize: 1 gallon jade plant of winner's choice

Prized by gardeners for their beauty in the landscape and by flower collectors who proudly display their colorful blooms in elaborate crystal bowls, Camellia japonicas are enjoying renewed popularity across the world. Their classic-shaped flowers herald the spring, and each year new hybrid varieties are introduced to delight collectors everywhere.

Camellias were first introduced from Asia to the West in the early 18th century by a Jesuit priest named George Karl Kamel, from whose name camellia is derived. Since then, plant hunters have been searching for camellia species growing wild in China, Japan and throughout the Pacific Rim. Growers then take these new plants and use them to create new hybrids for the home landscape.

Because camellias are evergreen, they not only make for great focal points in the garden but also can decorate a deck or patio in containers. They are so versatile they can even be trained on a trellis as an alternative to a shade-tolerant vine. The classic flowers range in shape from loosely-petaled double blooms to peony-shaped and more layered formal blooms. The 3-5" blooms are found in colors including white, shades of coral, pink and red, along with many variegated colors. Some varieties are also fragrant.

Camellias require little fertilizer. We recommend waiting until the plants have finished blooming before giving them their first feeding of the year. After flowering, wait for new growth to appear at the ends of branches and then feed every two months with cottonseed meal or an organic acid food through the end of September.

It's the perfect time to see our camellias in all of their blooming glory. We promise you will enjoy their spectacular flowers. But be warned, growing camellias and enjoying their flowers can be addictive!

Can I grow basil and other herbs from cuttings?

Answer:

You can take cuttings any time that the mother plants are still actively growing and healthy. Always use a shallow (less than 3 inches deep) container that is new or has been sterilized with 1 part bleach to nine parts water.

We recommend indoor greenhouse trays that come with clear plastic covers.

Use a mixture of peat moss and sand or a seed starting mix like Gardner & Bloome Seed Starting Mix. Wet your mixture completely with lukewarm water. Always keep your soil moist, not soggy, so the new plant roots have oxygen. Select new stems and prune no more than 3 inches. Strip the leaves off the bottom half of the cutting with your fingers. Make a final angled cut (at a former leaf node) so more of the stem will be exposed to root.

Use a pencil to make holes in the soil. Dip the cut end of your cutting into rooting hormone and place in the hole, firming the mix around your cutting. (There should be no leaves touching the mix.) Mist your cutting a few times daily to keep it moist and cover with plastic or a mini greenhouse cover to keep it humid.

Place your pots or trays in a warm location where soil temperatures can be maintained between 65 and 75 degrees. You can use a heating mat if needed, but check your soil moisture more often if one is used. When new growth resists when you gently tug on the plant, then it is ready for potting.

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